The Transkei

The Transkei is an area of South Africa's Eastern Cape. It is the home to the Xhosa people, Nelson Mandela, and a lot of happy cows, goats, and sheep. In fact. They simply roam where they want to. If you need milk go pull on an udder! Sometimes they actually sparay paint an initial on an animal...quite a sight.
When Ileft Morgan bay, Chris said that Africa is just on the other side of the Kei River down the road. Boy was he right. I took a ferry boat across with my faithful Nissan, and on the other side of the river was nothing but bumpy dirt roads and dark slender people all smiling as I passed. The children all smile and even sometimes run up to the car. I have picked up a number of hitchikers, as that is common in these parts. I picked up one young girl, Sipokazi, whom was on her way back from school to her aunt's house in a village some 15 miles away. She was so so wonderful and full of promise. She spoke very good English, which is rare for any Xhosa woman, as many children just give up on going to school because their family needs them to bring in income. She dreamed of going to London one day, and I replied "Great! You can do anything that you want to do!" I still believe this. I also said that you might find life in the breathtakingly beautiful Transkei is not as bad as one might think!
Later on in the drive, I picked up a Xhosa woman who spoke no English. I speak no Xhosa, but could muster a few words!!! She was just rambling on in Xhosa (with all those neat click sounds!) and I just somehow shook my head and understood ehat she was saying. I offered her some peanuts that I had in the front seat. When Ipoured tehm from the bag to her hand, she simply, poured them into her pocket...saving them for her children I assume.
I stayed in a little village (though there really is no such thing here as the homes are all spread about) called Umdumbi, as recommended by Chris in Morgan Bay. There was a beautiful little backpackers compound there and so i pitched my tent. I was able to trade my carpentary skills for a few nights of lodging and a meal. I built a driftwood railing for a Palapa in the center of the camp. The camp was really neat as they had a building for local children that functioned as an education center, small cabins for rent, a dining hall, and other buildings. All perched on the ledge over the Indian Ocean. My camera was full of memory, so the shots from this area of the country were all done on film...to be perused later. I worked on the palapa with a Spanish man, Pedro who was also traveling South Africa, so it wa snice to speak Spanish in the middle of the Transkei! The other man, was a local man named Moses. He looked a lot like Lee Scratch Perry, and seemed to have an extraordinary sense of awareness. If I needed the screwdriver, he seemed to be handing it to me before I even asked. When the drill threw a wood splinter in my eye. He said in his Xhosa dialect "Can I see your eye?" Then he came really close like he was going to kiss me with his wooly beard (one of the first African men I have seen witha beard). then he blew in my eyeball. I could see better than I ever have. Moses was a wood carver, and he spent any free moment down on the beach walking until he found a piece of wood that he saw "something alive inside of it" as he says. then. He would then just pull out his pockey knife and start to remove scetions until it apperaed...a dolphin, a bird, a face, a elephant...you name it. Absolutely marvelous to see this soft spoken man just retreat to carving with any lull of time. I gacve him a ride home at the end of the day...as it normally is a 2 hour walk. He was so grateful. I walked with him into his traditional circular Xhosa home, and looked at some of his work....no electricty or running water of course, so the candle in the room sent an incredible light over just asn altar type table, and very large bed. The homes are remarkably well built, and last for many years...
Yesterday I started to head out of the Transkei, after not spending nearly enough time there. I drove through the most chaotic city I have ever been in called "Umtata". The trafiic lights do not work, and you drive between hordes of people, cows, and crazy buses. I had to smoke cigarettes just to stay sane! But I am en route up to Johansburg, where the lovely and beautiful Marianne Romeo will be joining me in the little Nissan. She is bringing my nice video cametra, and we have been in touch with Gary Strieker, former CNN producer, whom now produces "Assignment Earth" covering environmental stories/news from around the globe...a much more worthy cause then the shoot em' up journalism we are used to. I'll keep you posted on that later.

Morgan's Bay

When I was leaving Capetown, Kent and Landy's wonderful neighbors Jay and Debbie (there adorable daughter Maya is the one in the picture of Kent, Landi, Tim, and I), gave me an adress to a couple that they were friends with in Morgan Bay (The west end of the Transkei). Later, when I passsed throught Port Alfred, another newly made friend, Mellie, said she also knew them well, and that I must stop to say "hello"....Well two people who do not even know each other form completely different parts of the country could not be wrong. So I paid Chris and Linda Bodges a visit.
There house in Morgan Bay, is about exactly what I would love to construct one day. They built it from almost entirely recycled and local material. It is modeled after the traditional Xhosa style with log-pole rafters, mud earth walls, and grass roofs. They run a quasi-restaurant (more like inviting kitchen) from their home. All of the produce they grow comes from the beautiful gardens surrounding the house. I could not pass the guava tree without picking up one to grave on! The meals are deliciously adventurous, and healthy. They make their own chutneys, sauces, and jams from various plants as well.
Since Linda was in Capetown for a few days, I spent a lot of time getting to know Chris, from whom I learned so much. He has (what is now quite rare) an incredibly positive outlook on the world spinning around us, and makes sure he and others make time to acknowledge it. When there is surf...surf. When there is work to be done...work (unless the surf is really good). Though we did not get a chance to get in the water, we spent a few afternoons going for walks along the majestically green and black cliffs overlooking the bay. I have never been to Easter Island, but for some reason kept thinking hat it must look like this! From the tops of the cliffs we saw whales, fish swimming, and dolphins. No sharks, but as with almost all of South Africa, it is very sharky water. I really enjoyed there 3 dogs Joey, Webster, and Hope, as well as there cat Jeremy , whom also kind of thought he was a dog. Thanks so much guys. Hope to see you "Immediately...if not sooner!"

The Sunshine Coast

The past few days I have spent driving and camping along the spectacular Sunshine Coast between George and East London. The road follows the coast and goes through so many different micro climates. The first night after leaving the wonderful and inspiring company of Maureen and her humble abode, I camped in the Tsitsikamma National Park. I walked along the vast expansive and desolate beaches. I had my first swim in the mystical Indian Ocean. So different already from the others...I was a little un nerved by seeing a number of shark eggs on the beach, and looking out at the strong waves and currents of the ocean. There were big jellyfish with no tenticles on the beach.

The next day I drove to the Aldo Elephant National Park. I was expecting to see just elephants, but ended up seeing warthogs, buffalo, rhinos, kudu, jackals, monkeys, and more. In fact, I pulled up to a huge meadow in the morning, and watched a pride of 5 lions arranging a hunt of buffalo in a field. They made one attempt but the buffalo were aware. They ran away, and once again began graving, while the lions retreated to the bush. AMAZING sight...throw away the T.V. you can see it in real life. It was amazing watching how unscared the buffalo were of the the lions hunting. It's as if they are saying...."yeah, we know your there, but have you tasted this grass? It's delicious. Listen lion- I am busy right now. Come back later on. Boy this grass is good.".



There is elephant shit all over the place. The park now has something like 500 elephants in it. They come right up the car, and I just loved watching these little babys walking underneath the mom elephant. One looked at me and tried to give me a "I'm a big boy" scream...I had to laugh. Of course you are! Even the baby could smash my little Nissan! The only thing that sucked about the park was the camp site, that reminded my of a Orange County trailer park. There was a hard gravel ground, and I could not put my tent stakes in. Mean while, I thought the few caravans around me were going to unroll some astro turf and practice there putting.
Driving from town to town has become really exciting. I love to stop at the thrift stores in between and see if I can hunt down the necessities I need...old pots, a matress, other odd and ends. Interesting not: the thrift stores all around the world smell the same! I stopped in on little town called Humansdorp. There was a traditional healer/fortune teller's office at the end of time. I had a nice long talk with Dr.Fred (he would not allow me to take a picture). Almost 80% of Africans will first visit a traditional healer before they go to a doctor. Dr. Fred was from Kenya, and a very interesting person, who moved here for a better opportuniy. He works with a lot of AIDS patients from his humble office.
I then bought 12 carrots from a lady selling them on the corner for 6 rand ($.75), and have been living on these for the past few days. Still amazed at how segregated the country is....although, many say it is so much better than before. The only difference I can tell between the whites and blacks is that people with white skin drive too fast, and always seem to be in a hurry. Somewhere they must arrive....




I slept in the lawn of a hostel here in Port Albert last night. There were no other guests, as it is not tourist season. The woman running the place, Michelle, and her friend Mellie, were really nice. They invited me out to a pub to listen to some music and have a few beers last night in a near by village. My first time out since being here, and what a great time. It seems everyone knows each other in the pub, and soon they all knew Johnny. The songwriter who was playing was VERY talented, and was once again amazed why we do not hear this type of great music on the radio. Then they all begged me to play some songs, so I obliged. I had to go unplugged, so it was more like screaming over a bunch of drunk jolly South Africans. But they danced and cheered.

Teddy Bears in the Wilderness

A few weeks ago, I was trying to hitch a ride from Kent and Landi's house into Simon's Town. I ended up walking for a few miles, and decided to give up just when a Nissan Bakkie drove around the corner. I stuck out my thumb half expecting the same results, and the truck pulled over. The guy's name was Shaun. Very soft spoken and kind hearted. He was also a hanglider, and I asked him about the Bakkie. It was after that converstion that I decide that that was a better option for wheels. I left my phone number with him in case he knew of one for sale, but failed to get his number...Well, on the way out of town 2 days ago, I made a last minute stop to change the windshield wiper blades for the trip with all the rain. In walks who???? Shaun. Wechatted for a bit and mentioned I was heading to Wilderness ( a town along the Garden Route here in southern South Africa). He mentioned that that is where he lived, and drew a map to his mother's house just outside of town...So after, a night of camping between here and there, I arrived in wilderness yesterday afternoon, and drove down an old dirt road in search of the house. There was a man with Jackson Browne type har and a few black poodles walking on the side of the road. I asked if he new where Maureen and Shaun lived...right there he replied.
Now Maureen is a lot like the Maureen I know...my mom. She is very kind hearted and endlessly giving. A rare endangered species these Maureens. Wewalked around the very rustic and rugged property. There are beautiful pine trees, although they are not native to here. Maureen has two HUGE pet pigs Fugly and Katie. If you got to pet them, they just fall off there stubby little legs and grunt as you massage their wirey hair. The house has no electricty and running water, and reminds me much of the old cabins in Big Sur, California. In fact, the whole landscape does, as you can hear the first waves of the Indian Ocean breaking. There is an old wood burning stove inside, and she uses the pine cones to heat it, and cook on the stove top with it. The dog and cat have also taken a liking to me. The entire house is built from remanants (sound familiar???) and has a refreshingly funky look to it. Shaun built it, and is building another building nearby...old nails, rope, broken glass, and dirt floor...paradise.
Maureen has been energized by sewing. As my mom Maureen is too! She started a organization called Teddy Bear Care http://www.teddybearcare.org/ in which local elder women from the near by townships sew teddy bears! The bears are sew from scrap-used fabric, and faces stitched on them....more love than Tyco and Mattell could ever muster! Maureen and the INCREDIBLE women whom help her, collect $10.00 USD donations for the teddy bears that these women make, and then deliver the bears to local children whom have NOTHING. Many of their parents have died of AIDS, or are dysfunctional alcholics, etc. In fact, the bears are usually taken to the teacher of a local school (if the children attend), because some of the parents will actually sell them for booze or what have you. They also have a number of other crafts made in the community by it's elder community members, whom have no idea how to MAKE MONEY Amazing how foreign of a concept this is to many around the world!). They sell custom handmade greeting cards for $10.00, and will write what you want on them, local children will draw the picture, AND ship them to any address worldwide! All for $10.00. The elders are paid per bear/craft made, and the children are able to recieve the fruits of this labor. THERE IS NO SKIMMING OF THE TOP OR PAY FOR MIDDLE MEN HERE. If you saw how humble that Maureen and these women live you would have no doubt...I sit by candle light and solar powered laptop to write you this.
Today, I went with Maureen to one of the work meetings at a women's home. The whole lot of elders (60,70, 80, and 90's!) get a taxi van from the ghetto, pile in, and drive to the house where they are taught how to sew and create. There were 4 men: Gerard, Nicholas, John, and Charlie, whom I worked with making mini rocking chairs from clothes pins. It was so much fun, and they got really into it. For these folks it is there only option to make money. There was not "I'm too good for this shit" attitude....pure stoke! So funny to be sitting teaching these 70 year old African men how to build from clothing pins! The women were outside (maybe 20 of them) and they all chat, and laugh, and gossip. Then they all start singing together really loud. At the begininng of the day, one women led a prayer, and the other ones shout out stuff about Jesus in Afrikaans...quite a sight. However, there is no religious afiliation with the organization..only the desire to give rather than take! We then ended by having a great soup and hotdog lunch. My soup had TWO chicken necks in it... Was arranging to play my first school time gig tommorow but the school is actuallt closed for holiday. If I stay till Thurs., I might be able to bust out my remix of "The Lion Sleeps Tonight".
I went for a nice long hike today, and bathed in a lake/estuary nearby. It felt so good to be outside and moving. Seems like I have not had any physical excercise in a while do to all the preparing. So good to go slow....sooooo good! Please consider Maureen's wonderful organization as any and all help is appreciated....these bears are packed with mojo. Love, jg

Adios Capetown...

I arrived thinking I would stay 3 days, and I confused days with weeks... Thank you so much to Kent the Healer, Landy the Warrior, Tim the Philosopher, Gaia the Cat, Robert the Walker, Chris the Positive Rivet Man, and all the other great friends that helped me get everything done in Capetown. I could not have done it with out you guys, and can't wait to see you all again!
So Yesterday was my first drive, and it went great. The wonderful thing about this little truck is that it is logical, everything works, and everything makes sense. If you have to fix it you do not need Microsoft windows downloads. Just a few tools and some time. But we tuned everything up, and it runs great! We spent the weekend, sewing curtains, installing new locks on the canopy, lashing water and fuel tanks, getting, spares, and putting feathers on the dashboard. As Tim says, "Rad"!!!!
A huge storm arrived in Capetown over the weekend, and brought a lot of rain, wind and swell. While driving down the road I saw little water funnels (Mini-tornadoes) out in the ocean...it was quite spectacular. The on the news they gave the low lying townships an evacuation warning, and I thought about how muddy those shanty shacks floors must get. Hope they fared well...On the way out of town the rain was starting to break as I drove past Khyalitsha (the township I visited), and a huge rainbow was visible over the bay. So amazing that that ghetto sits on the shores of one of the most beautiful stretches of beach....we might have to rethink our definitions of poverty, besides the issue of having to walk for your water (this could be a drag).
I bought the Bakkie from a police officer named Brahm, who used to work in one of the townships before the aparteid. He was shot in 1992 while on patrol, as it was very common for members of the township to shoot unprovoked on patroling officers. A few years later, a faulty stun grenade exploded in his hand, and blew his thumb virtually off. Since then, he has been struggling to be compensated for the medical bills and pay time that were associated with the accidents. He still battles, and the money from the Bakkie sale should help with his attorney fees. I doubt that this would happen in the States...what a tough job.
The highway to George was quite beautiful, and reminded me alot of the Santa Ynez Valley back in California. A lot of wine production, and beautiful open roads with subtle reds and oranges. Every now and then a beautiful black body contrasts the landscape. I wonder where these people are walking to way out there! Till soon, jg

The New Bakkie

I finally found the vehicle I was looking for! A liitle Nissan Bakkie
1400... The saga of classified papers, driving through every Muslim
neighborhood in Capetown, and making endless telephone calls is over
for now. Just when I was going to ask that dangerous question "Young
man (actually getting quite older!), what the hell are you doing here
in Africa?", this little baby appeared. New tires, brakes, well
maintained, and eager to go...
    I recieved all of my money back for the Fiat (Fix It Again
Tony) that I bought last week from Peter who is now immortalized in
the video clip below. Actually it was his doughy boss named Jock
(probably Jack, but with the Afrikaans accent it sounded like the
preferable Jock). He is the guy who owns the used car lot called
"Stikland" on the out skirts of Cape Town. To clarify the story, I
bought the Fiat from Peter at the lot with a certficate that said the
car was road worthy. All cars must be deemed road worthy according to
South Africa law. Peter said it was a 750 rand test and that he would
take care of it for me. I later learned that it is a 250 rand process,
and Peter probably split the "Extra" 500 rand with the man at the Road
Worthy Certification Center, because as all the mechanics I conferred
with assured me that the car would have never passed the
test....never. But Jocko came right, and my money came back (minus the
brakes I had to fix just to get it sfae to drive back there!). We sat
in his silver 1980's Mercedes as we talked about the wheel of life,
and what goes around comes around. I actually really enjoyed this
talk. I then confronted Peter in my best Robert DeNIro, and said I
still expectd that 500 missing rand ($50.00 USD) back by "High Noon on
Saturday". He was actually nervous and scared, which shows that when
you speak the truth, the mouse can be mightier than the cat. He
replied that he would not be there on Saturday, becuase he had to
attend a funeral. I replied "You might be attending your own funeral
if I don't see my money!" In which he claimed I was threating him, The
whole story made for a good one, and sent me into so many wild little
adventures around Cape Town, like visiting Ibrahim and his family
today about a Bakkie they had for sale. It was a piece of shit, but I
enjoyed talking with him. He was a muslim man with 4 children living
in a pretty barren cement house in a dreary part of town. He had
beautiful children with wonderful smiles.... as did he and his wife!
His young teenage daughter wore a burka so that only her eyes would
show. She wanted to be a teacher. Ibrahim's final words were that the
most important thing is to raise our children to be God-fearing. So as
you can see, it was worth the $50.00 fiasco at Stikland!
     Now the taxi-buses are a real experience here. Last week, I
piled into the oversized VW bus with some 18 other people. Though Cape
Town is ethnically mixed, I was the only white guy I saw on any of the
buses or even bus stations that day. The only seat open (More like a
half of a butt cheek) was right next to the driver. Now usually it is
like Latin America where there is a young guy  (Sometimes the driver's
son) on board who handles the money, leaving the driver to focus on
his task. But if there is no collector, they just start passing up
money towards the driver, and the person sitting near the driver has
to deal with th ecounting and change for him. So here I am in the bus
fresh to the country, with a new currrency, and passengers speaking
Zulu, Shona, Xhos, and all the other languages and accents, and they
are all handing ME the money and expecting change. They will hand you
a 20 rand and say "20 and 1" then another person gives you a 20 and
says "20 and 2" the second number meaning the number of passengers. Or
1 and 1 and 10 and 2 and 3 and 50.....AHHHHHHH! I could not stop
laughing. Then the entire bus will start breaking out in a song as
they are riding home from work. Usually one person will sing lead, and
the others follow in on a chorus. A call and response. So incredible
that they muster this energy after a long day.
   On the way hometonight, we almost hit a penguin in the road in
the dark. Kent swerved the car quickly when the little guy popped out
of the bushes next to the side of the road and was waddling across the
street without looking. He looked like the Artful Dodger waddling into
town to have himself a drink. I couldn't stop laughing about this!
Kent and Landi said that sometimes a group of them will walk up from
the beaches and hang out inside of the the bus stop kiosk...Ever in
wonder, jg

Just another day....

One of the best things one can do for oneself is wake-up in the morning, open your eyes and say "WOW!". I have been getting up very early in the mornings, walking out to the lawn in front of the house I have been staying at and mutter those exact words. Even here in Cape Town there is always something to keep you tuned in, I would say "worried", but in reality there is nothing to fear...just respect. If it is not locking the doors for the baboons who are on the prowl, it is swimming or surfing with constant fear of Great White sharks (there are MUCHOS of these guys though very few attacks), then there are the possible dangers of the street. How do you deal with all of these? As a cameraman I once worked with said "Situational Awareness". Simply be aware at all times, and things go smooth. Frankly, I still have yet to see anything as scarey and frighteneing as Los Angele's freeways!
I have only been over here two weeks, and most people would have crammed a safari, river rafting trip, and 1,000 photos in that time. So what have I been up to: well, I have managed to master the train/bus system in Cape Town, buy (and sell) a car in Capetown, prepare to buy another car (and later sell), visit 4 mechanics, learn about traditional medicinal (not what you think) plants around the Cape, get chased by a vicious baboon, take time wonder why people are watching American Reality T.V. shows such as "Who wants to be the next Super Model?", a little sketching, and wrote a new song for a lovely woman around the globe. I have been busy...the way I like it.
Yesterday, my friend Kent and I walked along in one of the National Parks near by to an area called Black Rocks. There are a number of sea caves along this stretch of coast. The rocks are beautiful and look like a painter's mixing plate with all of the colors. Kent actually made the trail going along the cliffs, and no one else really goes there or knows where to access it. We watched the sunset and talked about the state of the world. The passionate environmentalist has been stoked again inside of me since arriving here with the same magnitude of when I was an 18-year old Environmental Studies student at UCSB...I am going to help save the world by God! While walking back, we ran into a cormorant (sea bird) that was sleeping. It did not even know we where there as it was sleeping on one leg with it's head under it's wing. It looked headless. I was able to get right next to it, and take a photo. When it heard the "Bing" on my camera, it woke up, flew low along the rocks, and dove into the ocean. I felt horrible. What a way to wake up! Some skinny human in your face with digital contraption three feet away....so sorry...so sorry....we'll get it right one day.
Yesterday, one of the baby baboons snuck its way into the enclosed vegetable garden. Kent and I tried to walk up to it and release it, which freaked the entire gang out. The alpha male charged Kent with fangs that look like ice-cream cones. It is said that the baboons actually hunt lions! I have NEVER seen something so intimidating. Fortunately it was a bluff, and we backed up. The other baboons moved about and I really felt like we were in Planet of the Apes! Finally the baby found it's way out, and the whole gang peacefully resumed to digging up roots in the field. I played back the video footage of the charge while out in the field, and the baboons heard their own shrieking on the audio track! It was so funny to watch them react to THEIR own wear chants! Hahahaha....they looked so confused!
Hope to be on my way soon, but the pace here almost makes Latin America look fast. We don't need as much as we think we do! That I am sure of. Be well- Johnny

Shady Used Car Salesmen and Holy Mechanics

So I am still in Capetown trying to sort out the car...Takes ALOT of energy, and have almost run a few people down trying to break that nasty habit of driving on the right side of the road. Also very starnge shifting with the left hand, while sitting in the passengers seat. Fortunately, I am staying with friends again, and do not have to rack up a bill in hostel/hotel prices. I plan on taking off from here after the weekend.

I am now a member of the Vishook Public Library, where I am entitle to 45 minutes of FREE internet per day, so I must make this quick!

Gangster Baboons:
There is always a strange stillness to the air when the baboons are around. They seem to roam the rural neighborhoods where I am staying in wild gangs. If they decide they want to attack the house, they will split up and climb through the windows or doors and absolute wreck the house looking for food (Many people have unfortunately fed them through the years). So we are always forced to not leave without closing the windows, and always maintaining a constant vigilence. But the little babys that ride on the adults backs, are REALLY cute.

One of the great things about South Africa, is that there is this mixture of so many dialects of English, because for many of the people, the first manguage is Afrikaans, Zulu, Xhosa (the "X" is pronounced with a click of the tongue!), Shone, and a whole heap more...Even though the aparteid ended here 14 years ago, you sometimes still see strange divisions. In fact, "Blacks" refer to dark skin, "colored" refers to a mix, and "whites". Of course this is more of an older generation thing.

A lot of times, you see people dancing on the street to a near by boom box, which really makes me laugh. Not just tapping there foot.....getting down!

More to write once I can straighten out all of the car chaos! Love, jg

Afternoon in Kaliche Township

A few nights ago, I met a man on the street named Robert from Zimbabwe. Not Robert Mugabe! We had a great chat about life in general, and then arranged to rendevous the next morning so I could head out with him to some of the non-distinct neighborhoods of Capetown. Robert is one of those absolutely pure guys in life, who does anything and everything possible to help you, and asks for nothing in return....a guardian angel and a new friend for life. Many people from Zimbabwe, Somalia, Nigeria, Mozambique, and every other African country flock to South Africa for a chance to work. But none smile larger then the Zimbas! We went out to one of the townships called "Kaliche", where his cousin and friends live. Townships are the squatter towns where people live in cardboard boxes, corrogated metal, plastic bags, wooden pallet, and anything else you can think of shacks. It makes the slums of Latin America look like the high life. It would have been absolutely foolish to go in there by myself, but fortunately I was able to go with Robert and his friends. I must have been then only white man within a 5 mile radius of the place! The people just stared at me as a curiosity. Occasionaly, a tour group will charter a van to take white tourists into the neighborhood with police escorts. So needless to say it was a shock for them to have me shaking hands, smiling, and buing apples. I went into a nursery school where the children slept like sardines. The two women who ran the school had never seen a video camera before, and it was fun to playback footage of themselves on the screen. They laughed and laughed and laughed. The most amazing thing to see was the three men with an open pit fire, whom were throwing whole entire hairy sheep heads in the coals with bent pieces of rebar. If one of the heads just rolled onto the filthy ground from the pile, they would pick it up and throw it back on....I took video footage of this. Today Robert and I headed out to Stikland, which is where there is a huge pile of old cars, that you can pick up for cheap. We found a red VW Golf that seemed like the perfect one to pick up for $10,000 rand (About $1100). But I have to wait until Monday, when the police inspectors office is open to make sure it is not stolen! (protocal here). There must have been a reason I wore my red shirt today! So say a prayer that the car is still there Monday, as Africa is hard to digest without transport. But with a car, I have the freedom to strike out where I want to go, and I can camp inside the national parks... Well, I have already lost a bit of weight, and have never slept so little in my life but am ever smiling! Love to you guys....jg